Even though finding stuff on your own is all well & good, more often than not going “off the beaten track” by “leaving the guidebook at home” leads to eating bad Chinese food in a dodgy Paris suburb wondering what all the fuss is about. Or is that just us? In any case sometimes you need Google or Lonely Planet to help avoid days like that. And so it was after Bielsa, when we needed a stop on the way to San Sebastian. Lonely Planet came to the rescue and off to Sos we went.
LP reckoned that if Sos were in Tuscany it would be world famous. I think the writer may have been right. Half an hour off the highway via a narrow road in terrible condition, past some sad looking villages, and finally you came around a bend and there it was. Perched on top of a hill like some kind of ramshackle fortress village. It was a magical place, all narrow twisting alleys and breathtaking views and cobblestones and history. Apart from being an incredibly well preserved village it’s got some historical significance too – one half of the Catholic Monarchs, responsible for uniting Spain back in the 16th century, was born here. (See what you learn when you have a Kindle to travel with?? Amazing!!)
Our hotel was just as magical as the town, a beautifully restored stone house set into the city walls. It was all stone walls and shiny floors and slate bathrooms and gorgeous courtyards. The guy at reception gave us a restaurant recommendation which was well deserved. A storm hit but mostly it was thunder, the loudest I think I’ve ever heard, which made me feel for all the local puppies who must have been quivering in their boots (Spain is full of dogs). All in all it was a brilliant stop.